Focus On: Vitamin C
- morgan rohan
- May 14, 2020
- 5 min read
Vitamin C can be a wonderful skincare ingredient but it comes in many forms and can be a bit confusing, especially when you start looking at percentages and derivatives. So, I thought I'd put together some info here about how to look for vitamin c that works for a sensitive skin type. I've had some less than ideal experiences trying to work it into my routine and found that some research made quite the difference.
Ingredient in focus May: Vitamin C
Ascorbic and L-ascorbic acid are the two most common forms of vitamin c and have been most-researched for their efficacy. For someone like me, with rather sensitive skin, the issue with these is that they can instead irritate the skin by being too concentrated. Derivatives, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, can provide similar results with less chance of irritation.
- Brighten uneven skin tone
- Target dark spots, sun damage and acne marks
- Powerful antioxidant, meaning it provides protection against environmental stressors like pollution
- Provides additional defence for your skin, boosting your sunscreen, helping prevent further sun damage
- Can hydrate and firm to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Products I've used and enjoyed (or didn't):
I've heard many people rave about this, but it just wasn't for me. 10% L-ascorbic Acid is too strong and I ended up with irritation soon after using. Also, despite being packaging in a light-proof bottle and with an air tight pump, my bottle turned a dark brown and the texture changed dramatically after about 3 weeks of being open.
Whilst this is a newer product to me, I love how it works on my skin and the option of a wash off vitamin c product is very attractive, as it reduces chance of irritation. This is such an easy to use mask and I love the way it wakes my skin up in the morning, definitely brighter and smoother skin,
This is a beautiful serum, packed full of wonderful Australian ingredients such as Kakadu Plum, Finger Lime and Desert Lime extracts. I noticed such a difference in the overall brightness and texture of my skin when using this, especially the lightening of a few dark spots that have been around for a while. There was absolutely zero irritation for me and one bottle lasted me about two full months, which is fantastic value for money. 100% a repurchase for me.
This uses vitamin c derivatives and is much gentler on the skin, which means it didn't quite give me the results I was hoping for but also didn't irritate my skin. It's an affordable formula that would probably be best suited to someone wanting to try out vitamin c, or isn't needing it to make massive changes.
Products I haven't used but would really like to:
Farmacy Very Cherry Bright 15% Vitamin C Serum - already own this and might be the next one I try!
Is vitamin c bad for eczema?
No, but if you have facial eczema or sensitive skin than it's probably best to start with a more gentle derivative or use one formulated with calming ingredients such as niacinamide or ceramides. Alternatively, a wash off mask is also quite a good option as it can rinse off if you start feeling irritation upon application. I would definitely recommend either starting with a derivative rather than straight ascorbic acid, or reducing the strength of the product. Treat vitamin c as you would any other active acid or retinol and just start slow and integrate into your routine. My best recommendation would be the Inala Botanics serum - it gave me amazing results, zero irritation and the brand is amazing.
Ingredients to avoid using with vitamin c?
This is a question that pops up quite a bit and can produce thirty different answers. One of the most common pairs to avoid is vitamin c and retinol application at the same time. Whilst they won't necessarily lose their efficacy, it's a combo that can definitely cause more irritation than good results. Other combos that raise an eyebrow are:
vitamin c + niacinamide - yes and no, older research says that they effectively "cancel each other out" but newer and better formulations reduce the risk of this happening. Now we see products like the CC Me Serum that are specifically formulated with both, so that niacinamide can help calm the skin if irritated by the vitamin C
vitamin c + AHAs/BHAs - avoid this combo if you're using separate products, but can be safe if both exist in a specially formulated product. For example, the Frank Body Vitamin C Mask has vitamin c and AHAs and BHAs, which I would be comfortable using. I would not however, use my BHA exfoliating solution and follow it straight up with a separate vitamin c serum. They have not been formulated together and if you think about it, your vitamin c is going onto new, exposed skin.
vitamin c + a physical exfoliant - be careful in general how you use physical exfoliants and what you follow them up with, but even more so when it's an active like vitamin c. Physical exfoliants can have the risk of creating micro tears in your skins surface, which could lead to further irritation if your 20% vitamin c got in there.
In saying all of this, it comes with the caveat that I am not a professional. I have sourced my information from more informed people (listed below) as well as from my own experience. Any ingredient you introduce into your routine, especially one that can be as active or concentrated as vitamin c can be, should be patch tested or brought in gradually. Speaking specifically for sensitive or eczema prone skin, take a slow and steady approach with vitamin c, starting with a more gentle derivative and alternating with other actives in your routine. See what works for your skin and try not to overdo it.
Anyways, that's my rambly long post on vitamin c! It's still an ingredient that I'm familiarising myself with but know that I want to keep incorporating into my routine. Vitamin c is one of the skincare ingredients that has substantial scientific proof that it can have all these benefits for the skin, so it is worth looking into in my opinion.
As always, feel free to comment or message if you found this helpful, want more product info or just want to say hi!
Morgan xx
Resources:
Some of my info has come from people much more qualified and informed than myself - follow the links below to read more in depth or find other vitamin c products suited for your skin.
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